Sizing???
The focus of my efforts recently has been to develop my basic size 6 pattern. I do have a basic “sloper” as it is known in the industry that I made from a generic size 6 PGM dress form. However, as my husband pointed out, the dress form doesn’t look like a 50 year old size 6 woman.
Consequently, I’ve been doing some research into sizing and with the help of Kathleen Fasanella’s blog Fashion Incubator I have made some headway. From Ms. Fasanella I found that sizing standards do exist and can actually be downloaded (for an affordable $42) from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). I went ahead and downloaded The Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Women Aged 55 and Older. I was extremely pleased that I had found the information needed and was on my way. I thought I would simply compare the measurements from the ASTM table with my dress form, make the necessary adjustments and be on my way. Then I started comparing and to my dismay realized that many of the measurements the ASTM lists I am not familiar with and they actually measure the whole body instead of half the body as patternmaking books do. Furthermore, some of the measurements were up to four inches different than my dress from. Needless to say this is going to take much more thought and planning than I had originally considered when I was happily downloading the measurements from the ASTM website.
Lucky for me a couple of months ago I met a local designer who makes her own patterns and I actually kept the business card she gave me. At the time I knew we had met for a reason as I do believe all things happen for a reason. I have sent her an email offering to hire her to not only make my patterns but to teach me along the way. Hopefully she accepts. I know I could hire a patternmaker and be on my way but I want to be fully proficient in the entire design process. For me, starting this clothing line is not just a business but something I am truly interested in learning about. It’s a challenge that I want to conquer. Until next time…
Kristin Potenti, Self Assured
August 12th, 2008 at 7:06 pm
I have a designer gal named Lizz that I would love to connect you with….she is awesome and may be able to….don’t quite know right now….just a great contact perhaps!
August 12th, 2008 at 7:39 pm
Hi Kim,
That would be great, let me know!
August 12th, 2008 at 7:48 pm
Kristin-
I moonlight as a patternmaker and what I usually ask my clients to do is to find me a garment that they like the fit of for a certain size. I create my blocks for that customer based on the fit of that garment, and adjust for pre-determined measurements and fittings.
Grading rules will need to be determined after you get your first size, but there are some generic standards out there and grading services that can do the hard work for you.
Size charts can vary vastly depending on your market. If it is a 55+ market, your sizes will be significantly different than the dress form you are using, unless you ordered one specifically for your market.
Hope this helps you out a bit. I’ll keep you updated, but I’m in the process of writing a book covering many of the issues you are coming across.
-Jennifer Lynne
August 13th, 2008 at 10:34 am
Thanks for the advice Jennifer. I suppose my problem is that I don’t know how to adjust the blocks for pre-determined measurements and fittings. Can you recommend any resources that might help me?
My market is 40-60 so I figured I could adjust my form with padding based on the sizing standard from ASTM. What do you think of this thought process?
Thanks,
Kristin
August 13th, 2008 at 8:52 pm
Hi Kristin
Thanks for the mention and hi to Jennifer (porcelynne)!
There are some “issues” with the 55+ study results; I have some concerns about it. Being a voting member of the ASTM D-13 committee, I prefer to elaborate privately. You can call me tho. Actually anyone can (575-525-1577 MST).
Note: Can you hold off on developing your block till you’ve had time to read the book you ordered? The smallest size that is typical to use to develop prototypes is a size 8 (NY/east coast, bridge to designer) but most often a 10. Also, I don’t know how to say this tactfully but designers aren’t experts in pattern making. Pattern making is engineering, an introspective detailed task and few designers are qualified to make their own production patterns. There’s two articles you can read in the meantime:
http://www.designer-entrepreneurs.com/hire.htm
http://www.designer-entrepreneurs.com/need.htm
Btw, those articles will give you an idea of how to interview a pattern maker and the parameters of competency among colleagues. You hire designers to design and pattern makers to make patterns :). It’s better to hire someone who specializes in your product class (sportswear, activewear, suits, coats etc). Besides, these days you need someone with a CAD system and since they cost thousands of dollars, that is an investment that only a pattern maker would make. It’s a tool. We *have* to have it (I’m a pattern maker too).
Also, why haven’t you signed up for our forum at Fashion-Incubator? Not everyone qualifies. You do. I know you will find lots of friends and help there. I think Jennifer is a member too.
Anyway, wishing you continued success! Btw, I think the over 55 apparel consumer market is GREAT altho not without it’s challenges and I really hope you go somewhere with this.
August 14th, 2008 at 11:34 am
Kristen - I so admire your pattern making/sizing efforts…being a self-taught designer (taught myself how to sew)! I also have been struggling with sizing. That’s the main reason I am designing accessories…one size fits all! But now I’ve gotten to the point that I want to expand into some simple garments and have no experience in pattern making. I agree that it is so beneficial to have as much skill as possible when designing. When I think about all the time and fabric I wasted…UGH! I worked with a patternmaker on some of my items who did a very nice job but the time and money it took to get it right was so frustrating.
I am searching for a patternmaking course…or books.. so please hurry up Jennifer!!
Julie